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A serene sunset over Frozen Ocean Lake in Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site, Nova Scotia, featuring calm water, a dense pine forest shoreline, and a golden sunburst reflected in the lake.
  • Difficulty: Easy – Difficult (destination-dependent).
  • Facilities: Parking, canoe rental, washrooms, food, campsites, showers, supervised beach, sky observatory, visitor center.
  • Signage: Excellent signage, trail markers & information panels throughout.
  • Features: Nova Scotia’s top camping destination.  Accommodates adventures large and small. On-site canoe & kayak rentals.
  • Biodiversity: Blanding’s Turtle | Barred Owl | Eastern Hemlock | More…


Kejimkujik National Park

     Kejimkujik National Park is one of two National parks in Nova Scotia and the crown jewel of the UNESCO Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve. It’s popular with campers, hikers, bikers, and paddlers.  “Keji,” as it’s affectionately known, is one of Nova Scotia’s most revered places. Whether it’s a 400-year-old Hemlock tree redefining your idea of a forest, a barred owl watching over your campsite, or echoing Loons signalling another spectacular sunset, there’s always something to remind you that you’re in a special place.

     Like Disney World for nature lovers, there’s an activity for every type of outdoor adventurer. Numerous hiking & biking trails run throughout the park and can go from a stroll to a multi-day adventure. Similarly, paddling can be a leisurely splash or part of a challenging wilderness adventure.  Friendly & knowledgeable staff at the Visitor’s Centre can help you plan an adventure to suit your abilities and the current conditions.  For detailed guides on some of the most popular hiking trails in the park, see a list further down this post.

Paddling Adventures

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    This very sizeable park has a long history as a canoe route hub, frequented for thousands of years by the Mi’kmaw people. Its many waterways connect either directly or by (relatively) short portages.  I venture to guess that these portages helped the park earn its Mi’kmaw name, which has been said to mean something along the lines of “chaffed groin” (funny and probably true).  Fortunately, you don’t have to risk a chaffed groin as a canoe/kayak cart makes for a painless portage.

     You’ll discover, as the Mi’kmaw did, that it is an ideal place for #paddling due to the interconnected nature of its waterways.  Canoe and kayak rentals are available from Whynot Adventures located in Jake’s Landing (it’s wise to book in advance).   Networks of portages of varying lengths connect most of the major waterways in the park, allowing for some substantially challenging, isolated backcountry camping destinations.

Camping

     The park is a camper’s paradise and has many different types of camping to choose from, including serviced and unserviced group sites and backcountry sites throughout the park.  Group camping areas have large recently revamped communal washrooms with showers, sinks, toilets and outdoor running water.  There are nearby playgrounds for children and a network of hiking and biking trails that lead to a few beautiful sand beaches on Kejimkujik Lake.

A rustic wooden cabin (C2) at Jeremy's Bay campground in Kejimkujik National Park, Nova Scotia, featuring a front porch, red Adirondack chairs, a fire pit, and a picnic table nestled in a lush green forest.     The park also offers a variety of roofed accommodations. The most sought-after type is the Rustic Cabins, the majority of which are located at Jim Charles Point. These cabins are limited in supply, so be sure to book VERY far in advance. Note that only two are pet-friendly, so be sure to keep that in consideration if you plan on bringing the dog.

     Recently added in Jeremy’s Bay, “oTENTik’s” provide a basic canvas-lined, cabin-type structure, ideal for families who don’t want the hassle of packing and setting up a tent.  They can accommodate 4 adults or 2 adults and dependent children.

     Another option are the unique duplex teardrop cabins called Ôasis units located at Jim Charles Point. These cozy units can accommodate up to 2 adults and up to 2 children. They feature a unique hammock loft and convertible bed/table on the main level.

     Note that in 2018, the park instituted a Ban on imported firewood (due to destructive invasive species).  You can purchase firewood on-site, with kiln-dried wood now available.  Visitors can bring commercially available heat-treated/kiln-dried firewood, fibre logs, and processed fire bricks as long as they are in the original sealed packaging.

    Click here for information on how to book your stay. Check out the “Keji Campsite ExchangeFacebook Group for requesting, exchanging or offering booked campsites. Note that making a profit or bidding on sites is strictly forbidden. This process requires logging in to your Parks Canada account and changing the name of the registered camper to the person to whom you’ll be transferring it.

Merrymakedge Beach

     Public WiFi is available in a few spots in the park, namely the Visitor’s Centre, and at Lakeview Cafe’ & Eatery.  The latter is newly opened in August of 2023 and serves pizza, fish & chips, burgers, chicken fingers, nachos, wraps & ice cream amongst others. The Eatery is open daily from 11 am to 7 pm.  The cafe is located in a great spot next to beautiful Merrymakedge Beach, where you can also bring your own food to cook on the beach’s charcoal grills.

     With two large parking lots & multiple picnic areas Merrymakedge can well accommodate a sunny day crowd. Merrymakedge has many different spots to sit and enjoy great lake views.  The sandy beach has a coastal beach feel. It’s a great spot for sun, sand & a soak. A nearby change & washroom facility makes it a family-friendly day at the beach.

Check out the Birch Bark Canoe Shop at the south end of Merrymakedge to watch master craftsman Todd Labrador & family as they craft traditional birch bark canoes. June 27 to September 7, 2024, from Thursday to Sunday, 12:30 pm to 3:30 pm.

Dark Sky Preserve

     Recently designated as a “dark sky preserve”, Keji is also the best place in the province to experience the stars as you’ve probably never seen them before.  An outdoor amphitheatre and sky circle host many events and include telescopes.  For many people, like myself, the Kejimkujik night sky brilliance is a transcendent experience.  The amphitheatre is well worth a visit to have a perfect, reclined, unobstructed view of the galaxy.

Hiking Trails

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     Kejimkujik National Park has over a dozen trails ranging from the multi-day Channel Lake Wilderness loop for experienced backcountry explorers, to beginner-friendly strolls like most of the front-country trail. Below are the most popular trails, most of which can be done in an hour or two of easy hiking.

     Make sure to stay on the trail and practice tick safety.  Cell phone reception is spotty at best, so be sure not to underestimate basic considerations, including how many hours of sunlight are remaining in the day.

     Click the trail titles to view detailed maps, guides, and interactive 360° virtual tours of each.

See Also:  The St. Mary's River - A Paddling Guide

Flowing Waters Trail (1km)

     Following a calm section of the Mersey River, the Flowing Waters hiking trail. This quick, 1km loop is a good starter trail.

Gold Mines Trail (3km)

Walk the story of gold fever, which swept this area in the 1800s, along this semi-looped interpretive trail. Complete with mining relics, pits & character cutouts, this trail is heavy on storytelling. Click here for a detailed guide.

Grafton Woods Trail (3km)

     With two interconnected 1.5km loops, Grafton Woods has options. It’s worthwhile to do both loops, but if you’re pressed for time, I suggest keeping to the right until you reach this view of Grafton Lake. Click here for a detailed guide.

Hemlocks & Hardwoods Trail (5km)

     My favourite trail in the park. As a former tree planter, I have a deep appreciation for untouched, natural forests. This trail is a tour of the growth stages of a natural forest, the final stage contains the oldest trees in the park; Hemlocks that are over 400 years old. Click here for a detailed guide.

Mill Falls & Beech Grove Trails (3km)

A rushing waterfall at Mill Falls in Kejimkujik National Park, Nova Scotia, viewed from a wooden-railed lookout point with dark river water cascading over ancient rock formations surrounded by a lush green forest.     Perhaps the most scenic trail in the park, a great one for photographers. You can do the 1.5km (one way) Mill Falls by itself but it’s not a loop. Mill Falls trail has parking/access points at both ends & in the middle of the trail. While Mill Falls is the crown jewel, the subtle beauty of Beech Grove shouldn’t be underestimated. Toward the end of Beech Grove trail is a steep drumlin that’s fit for a dream. Click here for a detailed guide.

Rogers Brook Trail (1.2km) CLOSED

     A very scenic walk along a Red Maple flood plain. Plenty of camera-friendly views are packed into this short, semi-looped trail. A great accompaniment tothe  Farmlands Trail, which combined tell a story about an 18th-century resident farmer of the area, Peter Rogers. Update (June 2024): trail closed due to disrepair.

Slapfoot Trail (3.5km)

     The Slapfoot Trail serves as the backbone connecting the various group camping areas.  The trail stretches for 3.2km, from the beginning of the group camping areas to Jake’s Landing via a floating bridge.  This busy walking and biking trail has various sections of boardwalk, gravel, and more rugged terrain.  The trail runs along the shore of Kejimkujik Lake, with access to 3 supervised beaches.  Dogs are not allowed on all 3 (Meadow, Slapfoot, and Kedge) beaches.  Significantly further away Merrymakedge Beach does allow dogs.

Farmlands Trail (1.5km)

     Telling a blended story of cultural & natural history, the Farmlands Trail is a walking history lesson. Learn about ancient glaciers that shaped this land that was worked into an 18th-century farm by Rogers Brook’s namesake. Click here for a detailed guide.

Fire Tower Trail (10km)

     More of an access trail to a cabin/fire lookout tower than a hiking trail. Better suited for mountain biking, this former access road reaches into a very remote area of the park. Click here for a detailed guide.

Ukme’k Trail (6km)

     The park’s newest trail has banked turns and all the fun features that make for a great beginner-friendly mountain biking trail. This trail now allows you to travel exclusively on trails from Mill Falls near the Visitor Center, to Jakes Landing, Merrymakdedge & group camping areas. This spine trail follows along the Mersey River and allows you to go almost the entire length of the park from one end to the other.  The trail is roughly 2 hours on foot. Bikers must yield to pedestrians.

My Kejimkujik Photos

Trip Tips

     I highly recommend talking to the friendly and knowledgeable Kejimkujik National Park Visitor Center staff and getting their recommendations on how best to accommodate the type of trip you have in mind.  You can book online, but be sure to do it early if you have a certain date or campsite in mind.  Sites are booked quickly, with many queued up the day reservations begin in February.  If no sites are available for your preferred dates or equipment, click ‘Notify me’ and you’ll receive an email if any sites matching your criteria become available. Visit the Kejimkujik Facebook page for the latest news and updates on the park.

     Check out the Friends of Keji Cooperating Association Facebook page for lots of helpful, up-to-date info. They also run a “Campsite Exchange” Facebook group to connect short-notice cancellations with people looking for a site.

     If you drive an EV as I do, the Visitor Center has 4 free EV chargers, each at roughly 7kw. The park staff’s fleet is mostly electric, and you’ll often find them plugged into these chargers. You can speak with the front desk to free one up if needed. I used these chargers for a couple of hours while hiking the Mill Falls & Beech Grove trails, which start adjacent to the parking lot.  Another set of 7kw chargers are also available next to the Jeremy’s Bay shower facilities, near Jeremy’s Bay campground. These are the only chargers in the park, so plan accordingly.  Getting to the park, there is one 50kw charger at the Best Western in Bridgewater and two 180kw chargers by the Lunenburg County Lifestyle Center in Bridgewater. There are also Tesla Superchargers and CCS fast chargers in Digby. All of these locations are roughly an hour (70km) away from Keji.

     The community of Caledonia has recently created a great directory page full of local shopping, dining, accommodations, artistry, culture, and event locations nearest the park. If roughing it at a campsite isn’t your thing, check out unique local stays nearby with this interactive map.

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